Collar



Jan. 1, 1924 .1. M. VAN HEUSEN COLLAR Filed Nov. 16. 1921 A TTORNEKT Patented Jan. 1, 1924.

UNITED STATES JOHN MANNING VAN HEUSEN, OF JAMAICA PLAIN, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO 1,479,565 PATENT OFFICE.

VAN HEUSEN PRODUCTS, INC., A CORPORATION OF DELAWARE COLLAR.

Application filed November 16, 1921.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, JOHN MANNING VAN Hnosnn, a citizen of the United States of America, residing at Jamaica Plain, in the county of Suffolk, State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Collars; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it a pertains to make and use the same.

is invention relates to improvements in collars and includes improvements both in stand-up collars and in folding or turndown collars:

According to thepresent invention, either the collar as a whole, or the folding portion or neck-band portion of the collar, or both, is or are made of separate pieces of fabric secured together by an intermediate binding layer into what is in effect an integral composite fabric. I The ordinary built-up collar, built up of separate pieces of single ply fabric, has the objection, among others, of presenting a flimsy appearance. The collar of the p esent invention, although built up of separate pieces of fabric, which may be single ply fabric, is nevertheless free from the ap earance of flimsiness and the tendenc '0 the collar to wrinkle, above mentioned.

According to the present invention, I take two or more pieces of fabric and vsecure them together by means of an intermediate cementing or bindin medium that is waterproof or water inso able, and which does not affect in any objectionable way the out: side a pearanee of the fabric, but which nevertlieless combines the different layers .of fabric together into a composite integral whole.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the collar is built. up of different pieces of fabric having a size and shapeapproximately that of the collar and with their edges turned in so that they can be secured together by stitching or otherwise. Instead, however, of securing these separate ieces of fabric together merely by stitchmg at their edges, I secure them togetherthroughout their common widths,except at the fold line, and I leave them unsecured at the fold line so that the collar will naturally fold at that point.

According to another embodiment of the Serial 1T0. 515,609.

invention, I make a built-up collar with separate neck band and folding or turn.- down portion united together at the u edge of the neck band and I make the mg portion or the neck band, or both, of separate pieces of fabric which are secured together by an intermediate binding layer in a manner similar to that above described. In this case, the neck band or the foldin portion, or both, will be given added strength and stiffness and will present more the appearance of a starched collar.

The resent invention may, from one stand omt, be considered to involve the building up of a collar in such a way that it presents much the ap earance of a permanently starched or stllfbned collar, due to the stiffening effect of the separate pieces of fabric upon each other when combined together by the cementing agent in the manner described.

The cementing agent for securing the different layers or plles of fabric together is capable of variation. Agents such as cellulosic binding materials can be used. For example, solutions of cellulose derivatives such as cellulose nitrate in suitable solvents, or solutions of cellulose in cellulose solvents such as cuprammonium solutions, or solution of viscose, can be used.

The binding material can be applied in different ways. The separate pieces of fabric may thus for example, be folded in fold ing machines in much the same manner as in the present collar manufacture, and the separate pieces of the fabric, with their edges turned in, can then be coated with the adhesive material and treated to convert the layer of adhesive into a permanent bond. The fabric can similarly be coated before the ed e is turned so that the turned in edge will similarly be secured in place.

After the fabric has been coated, and either before or after the collar has been built up therefrom, the coating can be modified to convert it into a form better ada ted for securing the la ers of fabric toge er. In the case of a solution of a cellulose derivative in an organic solvent, the solvent may be partly evaporated before the layers of the fabric are secured together. In other cases, the pieces of fabric may be put together and pressed in a heated press to modify or change the binding material eno convert it into its final form. Whatever the particular procedure adapted for applying the binding material to the fabric or for uniting the layers of fabric together, the result will be a built-up collar which, in part or in whole, has the different pieces of the fabric secured together by what may be considered a common binding agent, that is, a binding agent which causes the separate pieces-of the fabric to be united to each other into a composite multiple lyfabric, so that the different layers or pies of the fabric will be considerably increased in their stiffness, except at the fold line' of the collar.

Instead of using single ply fabric, a somewhat heavier fabric, such as a li htweight two-ply fabric may be used in building up the collars, or in building up parts of them. In such cases, the binding agent may be permitted to penetrate to a greater depth in the two-ply fabric without appearing on the.

outside of the collar.

Instead of appl ing a separate adhesive material, the sur aces of the fabric nay themselves be acted u on by chemicals so as to give them a su cient degree of adhesiveness, and the layers so treated may then be secured together, making use of the integral binding agent formed from one or more of the layers of fabric themselves. A ain, tlrree separate pieces or plies of fa ric may be used and only the inner layer or ply coated with the adhesive or'treated to give it an adhesive surface, and the two outer layers can then be secured to this inner layer by means of its adhesive surfaces.

The invention will be further described inconnection with the accompanyin drawings illustrative of certain embo iments thereof, in which- Fig. 1 shows in perspective a completed collar embodyin the invention.

Fig. 2 shows t e collar unfolded.

Fig. 3 is a sectional view of the collar. Fig. 4-. is a sectional view of a modified construction, and

Fig. 5 is a sectional view of collar embodyin the invention.

The collar of igs. 1, 2 and 3 is a foldin collar made up a neck band portion 1 an foldin or turn-down portion 2 with the usual utton-holes 3 ands. The collar as shown, is made up of two separate pieces of thin fabric secured to each other except at the fold line 10. The folding portion of the collar is thus made ,up of an inner layer 5 and an outer layer 7, secured to ther b a la er of bindi material 12. e nec ban ortion is similarly made up of an outer ayer 6 and an inner layer 8, united to each other by a layer of bin ing material 12. .The edges of the collar are turned in and me. be stitched as indicated at 9. At the fold line of the collar, indicated at "10, the binding material 12 is omitted so that a stand-up the outer and inner pieces of fabric are not secured together at this point. The fold line is, moreover, made curvilinear as illustrated in order that the collar when folded maIy have a proper shape.

n building u the collar of Figs. 1 to 3, either one or bot 1 of the two so arate pieces of fabric may have the layer 0 the binding material 12 ap lied thereto either before or after the edges have been turned. If applied before the edges are turned, the turned edges will be held in place by the binding material. The binding material is appliedeverywhere except at the fold line 10 where it is omitted. The two ieces of the fabric are then placed toget ier and treated, for example, by heat and pressure to cause the cementing material to be converted into its final form and thereby secure the separate layers of fabric to ether. For example, ,if the cementing so ution is a solution of viscose, this maybe treated by heat and pressure to convert the viscose into the form of re ener ted cellulose as the binding agent. So utions of cellulose in other cellulose solvents such as cuprammonium solutions may be similarly treated to convert the cellulose or cellulose compounds into their final stable form such that the layers of fabric will be intimately secured together by the binding agent formed in this way.

In Fig. 4, the collar is a built-up collar in which the neck band and folding portion are secured together at the top of the neck band as by one or more rows of stitches 11. Otherwise, the collar may be built up and secured together in much the same manner as above described in connection with Figs. 1 to 3. Similar or corresponding parts of the collar of Fig. 4 are indicated by the same reference numerals as in Fig. 3. but with the suffix a appended thereto. The neck band portion is thus made up of separate pieces of fabric 6 and 8, and in the form illustrated in Fig. 4 these separate pieces are not secured together by an intermediate layer of the binding material but are left separate and unattached as shown. The folding POI: tion is similarly built up but it will be noted that the layers 5 and 7" thereof are secured together by an intermediate layer of the bindin material 12.

In ig. 5- the collar is a stand-up collar made up of three separate layers or plies of fabric. The outer layers are indicated at 13 and 14 respectively, the inner layer at 16. The inner layer is secured to the outer la ers by a suitable cementing material, of w ich two layers are indicated at 17 and 18 respectively. The collar may be built up in much the same manner as above described. and the collar may be' finished by stitching at the edges to give it the customary appearance of a stand-up collar. 7

According to the preferred conjunction in stand-up collars as illustrated in Fig. 5, the inner layer 16 does not extend the full width of the collar but is terminated at a short distance from the edges thereof. It will be noted that by means of this construction the outer layers 13 and 14 are extended beyond the inner layers 16 and form an open or divided edge. These extensions may be turned in against each other and secured with stitches to form the edge binding of the collar. The bound edges of a collar constructed in. this way are of substantially the same thickness as the main ortion of the collar and'do not form ob ectionable ridges or welts at the ,edge

he present invention 1s ap licable to collars of various styles and abrics and .collars may be made which have an outer fabric (where the collar is ex osed to view) which presents the same or -su stantially the same appearance as the ordinary starched collars, that is, the binding material may be of such a character that it does not penetrate to the outside of the fabric but merely is secured to the inside or penetrates the fabric only to a degree such that it does not objectionabl modif the appearance of the outside 0 the col ar. I claim- 1. An article of wearing apparel made in whole or in part of separate layers or plies of fabripisecured. together by an intermediate layer or layers of binding material, at least two layers or plies of fabric extending beyond the main united portion of the fabric, said layers being untreated with the binding material, and turned in and secured to form the edge binding.

2. An article of wearing apparel made in whole or in part of separate layers or plies of fabric,

rtions thereof.

6. A folding oollar marl secured together by an intermediate layer or layers of binding material,

the outer layers or plies of fabric extending beyond the inner la er or layers and forming a divided edge whic is turned in and stitched to form the edge binding. 7

3. A folding or turn-down collar made in whole or in part of separate layers or plies of fabric secured together by an intermediate layer or layers 0 binding material, at least two of said layers' being separate and unattached at the edge ortions of the collar and said unattache layers being turned in and secured to form the edge binding.

4. A foldin or turn-down collar having both its neck and portion and turn-down portion made of separate layers or plies of fabric secured together by an intermediate layer or layers of binding material, at least two of the layers or plies at the edges of the collar being separate and unattached, and the said layers bein turned and secured to form the edge bin ing.

5. An article of wearing apparel made of separate layers or plies of fabric secured together by an intermediate. layer or layers of binding material, the said layer or layers of binding material being omitted along a narrow zone to form a ortion of increased flexibility along which t e article is adapted to 17 1d eof separate layers or plies of fabric *formin both the neckband and foldin portions 0 the collar, said layers or plies l by an intermediate layer or layers of bindi materials except at the fold line-of the co ar. 7 a

In testimony whereof I aflix my signature.

JOHN MAIiNING VAN HEUSEN.

elng secured togeth er 

